The formal Retriever Events organised today were not exactly
relevant to us, but the Scottish countryside was
and it was only a morning drive west from the top of the Great
Glen to reach the west coast of Scotland.
Loes loved Torridon, I fancied revisiting Applecross and Toscaig,
which would give us some interesting countryside along the way.
On the return we could make it a round trip by driving the coast
road round from Applecross to Sheildaig, a real bonus.
We set off north with some wet looking skies above us
but once past Beauly and Muir of Ord the road turned west and
we were heading into slightly clearer weather,
Achnasheen owes its origins to the road junction where the
road to Loch Maree and Poolewe turns off to the north.
The main road and the train line continue on, gradually curving
south once more towards the Kyle of Lochalsh and Skye.
At the head of the sea loch we reach Lochcarron, which has
a delightful ribbon of houses along its northern shoreline.
We are hoping to get to Applecross for lunch.
The road there has to negotiate the 'Bealach
Na Bà'
mountain pass that climbs between the hills further down the
loch.
The first surprise of the day was the fact that
the Lochcarron Shipyards seem to be up and running once more,
servicing huge oil rigs.
The Bealach or "Pass of the Cattle"
was the old drovers route from the coastal areas of Applecross
to the local cattle markets.
It climbs from sea level to a height of 2053
feet . . . and comes with its own driving warnings !
However the road is a classic mountain pass
and part of the 'North Coast 500 Road Tour' of Northern Scotland.
As such is visited by tourists from all over,
whether they travel by bike, car or smaller camper van.
It seems that adding your country sticker is
the thing to do . . . goodness knows what the old sign said
!
We head up the pass, stopping at a layby to
read the information board.
This is a single track road, so it is courtesy
to wait at passing places for approaching traffic to clear.
Up the first steep climb, leaving the oil rig
far below.
Above that, the road enters a hanging valley
and we have a gentler climb up the pass.
Not for long as the steep head of the valley
is reached.
Here the road does a series of spectacular hairpin
bends to finish the final climb.
This was the road a few years back !
. . . when it was a real achievement to drive
the pass by car.
( photos courtesy of Applecross
petrol station )
Nowadays with modern vehicles the task is much
easier and we reach the top all too quickly.
We stopped, as many did, at the highest point
to admire the view west toward The Isles of Raasay and Skye.
We've reached Applecross Village, 2053 feet
down the other side and back to sea level.
[ Should you want some, the petrol station offers
24 hour self service using a card machine and the petrol was
a remarkably sensibly price.]
On the edge of the bay an adventure
company offers kayak outings for beginners and experienced
canoeists.
The Applecross Inn on Shore Street was sadly
closed Tuesday and today (Wednesday morning) till 3pm so no
lunch here.
To be fair, we'd seen the notice back at Loch
Carron to that effect, so were not caught out.
We still needed somewhere for lunch so we drove
the short distance to Applecross House
as I'd had a really nice meal there a few years
back . . . and they were open today.
They serve meals in their Walled
Garden Cafe and Restaurant
Fresh local produce . . . a seafood salad and
what turned out to be a superb lunch.
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Where possible
all the veg is grown in the garden . . . |
. . . carefully tended
by the staff. |
We had a delightful walk around the grounds
and in the woodland outside the walls afterwards,
which included a glimpse of the old ice house
and their deer herd in the paddock on the way out.
- - - o o o - - -
Time was on our side so I wanted to take Loes
"along the Street" and down the coast road to Toscaig.
Down through the village of Camusteel to the
harbour at Camusterrach.
At the head of Culduie inlet is an abandoned
boat that might have served the local villages
especially in transporting bulk supplies or
in winter when the pass was closed.
At the top of the hill looking down on Toscaig
is a beautiful round house.
It is a new-build by the owners of the house
hidden behind, and Ann and I and the kids stayed in it on our
holiday here in 2016
The end of the road . . . the Harbour at Toscaig.
This is the closest road and best harbour for
coastal supplied from The Kyle, but the photo doesn't do it
justice, sorry.
Heading back north now to Applecross.
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We divert
to the general stores at Camusteel . . . |
. . . a small shop full
of everything a village could possibly need. |
However our needs were few today . . . but it
didn't stop us calling in for an ice cream !
Back past the shallow Loch a Mhuilinn and to
Applecross Bay once again.
It's gone 3pm and the pub was already busy with
visitors as we passed, but having been recently refreshed, we
continued on our way.
Taking the "new" road to Sheildaig
via the small coastal villages of Fearnmore and Fearnbeg.
When I first came here with my parents the road
was only a pony track and I remember this wide road being built.
It probably existed as a rough track to these
buildings on the An Cruinn Leum headland, next to a rather nice
sandy bay.
I believe this is or was a Naval Lookout, as
the sheltered waters between here and Raasay were used for measuring
the speeds of new boats.
The "measured mile" could be observed
in full and the boat or submarines could be 'calibrated' on
test sailings.
The sun is out and the hills of Torridon are
looking as good as we remember them.
This is now a busy road, in the old days it
would have been no more than a pony track for the postman and
clergy
who's jobs it was to serve these remote crofts
and villages.
A classic red-roofed cottage with a view up
the Torridon inlet . . . taken from the car as we drove by.
The prominent hill above the cottage is Ben
Sheildaig.
The island of Eilean Mòr, looking across
to the hills of Beinn Bhreac, Ben Alligin and distant
Baosbheinn.
The village of Sheildaig spread along the foreshore
at the head of Loch Sheildaig.
It is basically one house wide and includes
shops, a pub and hotel.
On the high ground above the village is a large
camping and caravan site and a war memorial (behind which I
once kissed a girlfriend !)
A small inlet beyond the village opens once
more into the wider sea loch of Upper Loch Torridon.
We stopped at a parking area to look across
to Ben Alligin.
The layby also allows extensive views west down
the loch towards the sea and the misty Cuillins of Skye.
Wild country with few roads on the other side
of the loch.
Looking inland, the other rugged hill is that
if Liathach, showing it's less dramatic side.
Heading east now and we pass into the Beinn
Eighe Country Park
and see the mountain famed for its white quartzite
summit.
Looking back shortly afterward I found that
classic view of Liathach that I had been searching for.
Sunshine and showers seems to be the order of
the day now
as we head up the Torridon (river) Valley towards
Kinlochewe.
You've just got to do it . . . turn left at
the village for a short diversion down the road to Loch Maree,
where we get a fine view of Slioch Mountain
across the waters of this twelve mile long, fresh water loch.
On past the waters of Loch a Chroisg, heading
through the hills of Wester Ross, back to Achnasheen.
A damp journey for the last part of the day
as we return once more via the towns of Muir of Ord and Beauly
Our booking at the B&B has ended so its
off to Drumnadrochit Hotel for tonight.